Temples, volcanoes and the blue,
blue, sea
Isobel Shirlaw returns from Yogyakarta in Indonesia enthralled by its swirl of colours, its bustling humanity and its spectacular landscapes
Indonesia has scarcely been out of the headlines last months owing to a series of natural and man-made disasters; in early February hundreds of people were displaced by heavy floods and landslides in Java. Then, on March 6 an earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale killed 85 people in western Sumatra, merely days before a Garuda charter flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, central Java overshot the runway, killing 21 people.
But Indonesia is no stranger to disasters for it is situated in the Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’, so-called as a result of the extreme tectonic activity in the area. It was an earthquake off the coast of Sumatra that triggered the 2004 tsunami, which killed 220,000 Indonesians alone, and in May, 2006 another massive earthquake devastated Java; 6,000 people died, 50,000 were injured and 200,000 displaced.
But life carries on for the 225 million or so inhabitants of the world’s biggest and most extraordinarily diverse archipelago that comprises 13,000 islands, stretching 5,000 km from east to west – roughly the same distance as Athens to New Delhi. The islands are as varied and richly diverse as you could imagine in one country. Home to over 300 languages and cultural traditions, in a single visit you could see tigers, temples, komodos, coral reefs and volcanoes. Around 80 per cent of the total population is Muslim, making it the largest Muslim population in the world. Although Indonesia is not an Islamic state, Banda Aceh, a Special Territory on the northern tip of Sumatra, has been governed under sharia law since 2000.
Yogyakarta is the only other Special Territory in Indonesia, situated 565 km east of Jakarta at the foot of the live volcano, Mount Merapi. The city, which has become the country’s primary tourist destination was formally founded in 1755 but the area has been historically significant for over a millennium.
The name of the city is derived from the Sanskrit name Ayodya, after the capital city of Rama in the Ramayana, and it is now more commonly known just as Yogya (pronounced Jogja). Jalan Malioboro, the main artery running through the heart of the city, is the centre for shopping and nightlife. It is crammed with market stalls, three-wheeler bemos – Indonesian cycle rickshaws, and motorbikes, and in the evenings you can sit out on mats on the side of the road and sample some nice udang goreng – fried chicken with rice with some spicy peanut satay sauce. Alternatively, if you are feeling a bit more daring, and ecologically dubious, why not try some cobra?
Yogya is renowned for its handicrafts. Javanese puppet shows – wayang kulit – are legendary. Each handmade filigree leather puppet takes weeks to create and at night, the puppets, silhouetted behind screens, perform tales from the Hindu epic poems, usually from the Ramayana, to the accompaniment of gamelan music.
Java is also famous for its textiles – specifically batik, and down Jalan Malioboro you will not be able to move for shops or touts inviting you in to see batik exhibitions. In some of the bigger craft shops selling a range of wall hangings, clothes and masks, you can also watch artists preparing the fabric.
At the heart of Yogyakarta is Kraton, a ‘city within a city’, housing the sultanate palace complex, the main parts of which were built in the eighteenth century, although the area has developed over many centuries. Kraton is home to around 25,000 people and is characterised by its gorgeous maze of back streets all containing hidden gems, such as puppet workshops or small cafés, and neat little buildings huddle among the ruins of the original city walls. Once inside it is worth visiting the Water Castle, the Sultan’s secret pleasure park, where he used to entertain his harem.
In the evenings, Kraton continues to bustle and the famous night market is stuffed with enchanting oddities – exotic birds, authentic fast food and startlingly tacky souvenirs.
But the main reason for staying in Yogya is as a base from which to visit Borobudur, 42 km northwest of the city. It is the largest Buddhist monument in existence, built in the eighth century, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The vast grey mountain of 1.6 million Andesite volcanic stones rises to a height of 34.5 metres and is thought to have taken around 75 years to construct. Each of the nine tiers is lined with beautifully preserved relief sculptures and the monument houses 500 statues of the Buddha, many of which, however, were tragically decapitated by the earthquake last year.
Different interpretations of meaning have been ascribed to the monument over different periods of time, but it is a widely accepted view that Borobudur represents the ten stages of the meditative Buddhist journey from reality towards enlightenment, starting from the hidden layer that depicts the struggle between good and evil and, as you climb, up to the spiritual peak, symbolising Nirvana.
Entrance costs $10 and you can easily walk around the entire site in a morning. The view of the mist-shrouded rainforest and volcano from the top of the monument is spectacular at this time of year, making it look especially mystical.
It is possible to stay near the site, in the town of Magelang, and if you have serious cash to blow on a once-in-a-lifetime trip, there is a remarkable hotel, the Amanjiwo which nestles, almost invisibly, in the heart of the rainforest, overlooking the temple. Many of the suites boast private pools and prices start at around $650 a night.
However, with that kind of money you could afford to see an awful lot more of Indonesia than a hotel room so I would recommend the considerably better value of the luxurious Dusun Jogja Village Inn, which is a quiet oasis on the outskirts of the city. It has a beautiful salt-water pool, and a restaurant serving some of the best food in Java, for around $3 a head. Rooms are comfortable and cost around $20 per person including a three-course breakfast; the service is unbeatable and the staff are extremely friendly.
If you are not too templed-out after Borobudur, it is also worth visiting the Prambanan Plain, 17km north-east of Yogya, the site of Java’s largest Hindu temple complex, which is also a very beautiful world heritage site. Its construction probably began around fifty years after Borobudur.
Half an hour out of Yogya, 28km to the south, you can visit the rugged beach at Parangtritis. The tidal undercurrent is so strong that swimming is prohibited (although if you go inland you can swim in freshwater pools.) The beach is surrounded by craggy volcanic rock, and lined with fishermen, it is enough just to walk up and down. Horse-drawn carriages (andong) cart tourists along, and there is no shortage of little café shacks to stop for a fresh coconut milk.
But for beaches, you really cannot beat Bali for white sand, quiet coves, surfing, or snorkelling in coral reefs. If you have the opportunity, a flight from Yogya to Bali will set you back around $50. But, of course, you can also fly directly there from Singapore, Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur.
Bali is a predominantly Hindu island and feels very different in spirit to Java. There are shrines everywhere you look, and at night, offerings are left out for the gods. The main tourist resort is at Kuta, on the southwest of the island. Although the beach at Kuta is beautiful, the tourist industry there is enormous and the coast is stuffed with bars, nightclubs and hotels. It is noisy and vibrant, so if you want to party, head on down but if you fancy somewhere more peaceful in the daytime, nearby Sanur, about a thirty minute taxi-ride from Denpasar airport, on the east coast of the southern tip, is worth a look-in. The beach is clean and the water is calm. Although there are several hotels along that stretch of coast, development of the area has been tastefully done. There are several excellent seafood restaurants on the beach as well as in the town, and many of them also feature live traditional dancing in the evenings. On the stretch of bars and restaurants on the main road, set a little way back from the coast, check out Ming for international haute cuisine. The Kesumasari II hotel is right on the beach and has comfortable, spacious, air-conditioned family-sized ensuite rooms, for around $20 a night, including breakfast.
The only obvious drawback to Sanur is the high number of hawkers and touts that march up and down, shouting at you for not buying their sarongs and just generally disturbing the peace. However, they are positively shy compared to the beach-sellers at Kuta.
Getting there
There are regular flights buses and trains between Jakarta and Yogyakarta;
Adisucipto airport is 8 km to the east of the city, Umbunharjo long distance bus terminal is situated 4km from the city centre and the train station is located right in the city centre on Jala Pasar Kembang. Flights from Jakarta to Bali cost around $75.
Flights between Jakarta and Yogyakarta or Yogyakarta and Bali all cost around $45.
Where to stay
YOGYAKARTA
Top Top-end Amanjiwo, Magelang.
Tel: 0062 293 788 333.
Email: amanjiwo@amanresort.com
Mid-range Dusun Jogja Village Inn: Tel: 0062 274 373031.
Email: jvigecko@indo.net.id
Budget Hotel Indonesia. Tel: 0062 274 587659.
SANUR, BALI
Top end: Hotel Bali Hyatt. Tel: 0062 361 281234
Mid-range/ Budget: Kesumasari II Beach Hotel. Tel: 0062 361 28782
|
