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Speaking of the soul of Bengal...
by Syed Badrul Ahsan
Baishakh for me is a reassertion of the self, the purely Bengali self, that resides in me, in other Bengalis across this land and around the world. No, it is not love of the self, or excessive love of country that I speak of. It is, on a very basic level, an understanding of the cultural heritage I spring from that takes me back to Baishakh, or brings Baishakh back to me every year as it were. Having grown into youth in a land far from home, my initiation into Bengali culture, in that intellectual meaning of the term, was rather a delayed affair. Do I blame myself for it? Do I pin the responsibility for this belated realisation on anyone else? It would be easy doing that, but for now, let me rest back in the explanation that there are things that happen. And things that don’t. Way back in April 1965, in school, I was asked by my Urdu teacher to prepare a small speech in commemoration of the birth anniversary of the poet Iqbal. It took me, an eleven-year-old, close to a fortnight to prepare that speech. It was sheer nervousness that accompanied the eventual delivery, but the important lesson I learned on that occasion was that there was something called local or national literature. Iqbal was not part of my heritage, of course, but then again, he was, for he straddled the Indian subcontinent. And the Indian subcontinent, for those of us who have looked beyond the political divide of 1947, remains emblematic of the richness of collective cultural heritage. In that same year, something else happened to me, a spot in time which stirred the Bengali in me, if you can call it that. In the home of a Bengali couple in that city enclosed by mountain fastnesses, a pencil sketch of a venerable old man adorned the mantelpiece. I had little idea of who it was and all I recall is that the sketch had been done beautifully by a woman my mother knew as Jonaki. To me, to my siblings, she was an aunt who was noted for her long tresses which she wore in braids. In these forty one years I have not seen Jonaki, not once since the day I spotted the sketch of the old man in flowing white beard on that mantelpiece. It was Jonaki who found me watching the sketch intently. She it was who informed me, simply and in aunt-like fashion, that the man in the sketch was Rabindranath Tagore. It would take me quite a few more years to get into some depth about Tagore, but on that day I knew that Bengali literature was around, that it needed to be probed by schoolboyish philistines like myself. If that was the beginning, a very significant point in my understanding of my own culture was reached in the latter part of the 1960s, albeit through the gathering political movement in what we then knew as East Pakistan. My father, a trifle worried that my infatuation with the likes of Zulfikar Ali Bhutto might actually keep me away from my own roots in Bengal, took me aside one day, to let me know all there was to know at that stage about the presence of a man named Sheikh Mujibur Rahman. He was a great man, so said my father, and I should strive to know more about him. I did. And I thought — I still think that way — that my father had taught me a valuable lesson. On the day I met the great man, nearly two years before he would become the founding father of a free Bangladesh, the first question Sheikh Mujibur Rahman asked me was about my father. Why had he not come to the dinner? What did he do in the central government of Pakistan? It was a pleasantly eerie feeling. My father had told me about Mujib; and Mujib was now asking me about my father. In independent Bangladesh, in those early years, my initiation into the Bengali way of life was made easier by the contribution of Father Benjamin Costa, today principal of Notre Dame College. In 1973, having been selected for admission in the college, I approached him, to ask him if I could take Alternative English or Easy Bengali in lieu of the standard Bengali everyone else was taking in first year intermediate. My problem was a grave one. I had just come through Senior Cambridge pretty well, with Urdu as one of the subjects. And in Urdu I had done well. My Bengali at that point was limited to speaking it, ungrammatically, at home. I could not read or write the language. Father Benjamin looked at me coldly, before asking me if I were not a Bengali. Of course I was. Then you will take the standard Bengali like everyone else, he said in that firm tone of voice. That was it. I agreed, more from compulsion than from any enthusiasm. But I also knew there was to be no academic future for me, for I would never cross intermediate because of that imposition of Bengali. My future was doomed. Two years later, I whooped for joy when I went clear through Bengali and marched off to Dhaka University for admission in honours. All the way, I thanked the Lord and I thanked Father Benjamin. It felt happy to be a Bengali in the true sense of the term, a fact that was reinforced when I went through, some years later, the Bangladesh Civil Service examinations with Bengali language and literature being part of the curriculum. It is of course another story that I did not join the civil service. At this point in time and in my own life, it is the roots that matter. No, I am not the kind of ideal Bengali I would have liked to be. But every time Baishakh comes around, I think I know how it feels to be part of a culture, any culture, for culture is what keeps us going. The songs that break forth at the Ramna Batamul every Pahela Baishakh are for me a reminder that we in this country happen to be a fortunate band of people. That comes through the realisation that ours is a cultural nationalism, that what we define as Bengali nationalism is quite removed from the national perspectives other nations have set for themselves. It is when I remember this handhold I have on culture that I know what Tagore and Nazrul and Bankim and all those others mean to me. On Pahela Baishakh, I certainly do not look for perfection in men and women around me. But I do go on a search for profundity. Bengalis, I have always believed without the slightest trace of chauvinism, are a people who have regularly gone forth in search of knowledge. They read, they talk intelligently and they sing with deep amorous passion. What more can you want? And all those Bengali women? Nothing can gladden the soul in you more than the image of a Bengali woman with a teep on her forehead, with her long hair and the grace with which she wears that saree. On Pahela Baishakh, as on every other day, I go looking for the Bengali woman. She is not the person I see attired in shalwar kameez or shirt and slacks. She is a being I recall from my mother’s generation, from the times that produced Suchitra Sen across the frontier, in that other Bengal, and Kabori in our part of this ancient land. In my wanderings, I look for the Bengali who can speak his language well, without getting it entangled in a foreign tongue. Nothing can be more depressing than a Bengali spiking his language with a liberal use of English terms. Conversely, nothing can be more dreadful than an individual marring his use of English through peppering it with Bengali. It is thus that I listen with rapt attention to Professor Serajul Islam Choudhury and Sardar Fazlul Karim and Mustafa Nurul Islam. It was thus that I used to hear Abdullah al-Muti Sharfuddin. These are Bengalis, illustrious Bengalis, whose employment of the Bengali language has been superb to the point of being perfect. And they have spoken English without seeing any reason to bring in any Bengali phrase or term into their conversations. When Pahela Baishakh is here, I go back to the traditions which have shaped life in this land — the songs, the pithas, the sports — for ages. I stand before the pond at my village home and recall the day, years and years ago, when my grandmother took a dip in it, but not before instructing me to guard the vicinity lest any stranger come along. In those days, no strangers came along, for life was a serious, civilised affair. In those days, Bengali ministers and bureaucrats did not travel to our hamlets and villages covered in steamy western suits. In the times I speak of, it remained the ambition of Bengali young men and women to learn to speak good, properly pronounced Bangla, unlike the mangled language many of our eminent citizens use in public these days. When Pahela Baishakh arrives, it is good Bengali I strain to hear. In the music of Kanak Chanpa and Mita Huq, I think I spot the timelessness of Bengal. I remember Abdul Alim on the day; and I recall the songs of Rathindranath Roy. On Pahela Baishakh, the Bengali in me hammers away at the idea, ceaselessly, that the soul of Bengal, of Bangladesh, comes draped in modernity. You cannot drive a wedge between the Bengali ethos and the modern universe it is so much a part of.
Let us celebrate Chaitra Sangkranti
by Farhad Mazhar
The word ‘sangkranti’ implies the moment of transition that has no beginning and no end; the notion is not linear, but cyclical. The sun moves through space and every month crosses each of the signs of the zodiac, known as rashi, and completes twelve cycles of the year. So there is no ‘new’ year but return of the cycle, or the ‘chakra’. In the cyclic movement, every point is literally the end of the cycle as well as the beginning. There is no new beginning, and therefore no ‘past’ in the linear sense of the term. The word ‘sangkranti’ captures this notion of the eternal return of the ‘origin’, where the ‘origin’ cannot be located in any linear scale of time but in the omnipresent everywhere. If we draw a line we can locate a point where the line begins and ends. Any point could be the beginning. This is not the case with a circle. A point in a circle is both its origin as well as its end; it starts and closes a cycle. In Bangla the cyclical return of time is also known and experienced as ‘ritu’. The word ‘ritu’ is usually translated as ‘seasons’ and thus it loses the context of the cyclical notion of time. Perhaps we lose more in such literal translation. For example, the word ‘rituboti’ implies fertility for women. So the notion has very deep implications connected to the reproduction of the human species. Time is not merely any objective time outside human beings, but the eternal return of a unique being in the womb of the universe. Time presupposes this corporeal being, the human. This is the reason why Kamalakanta, the renowned philosopher of the Bhakti tradition, asked Kali, the Goddess of time: ‘If you claim to be time, the “mohakal”, how come you have the skulls of humans around your neck? Your presence presupposes the presence of human beings. It is true that human beings exist in time and are therefore perishable, but it is also true that any notion of time also presupposes the presence of human beings. There is no time outside human existence.’ In contrast to new year or ‘nababarsha’, the celebration of ‘sangkranti’ is far more interesting, philosophically and culturally fascinating and could open up a new horizon in our efforts to construct us as ‘people’ with the distinction that could add diversity to the global community. The yearly solar cycle starts on the last day of the last month of the Bengali year. The cycle ends and begins on Chaitra Sangkranti. It is on the 30th of Chaitra. In Bengali culture, celebrating Chaitra Sangkranti is more important than celebrating Pahela Baishakh or New Year’s Day. In ‘sangkranti’ there is no notion of ‘new’ and ‘old’ year. Secondly, the moment of transition is very brief. So celebration to mark the transition can be as long as one wishes. In the villages of Bangladesh it could be a week or more, and may include the first day of Baishakh as well. Since the notion of time follows the seasonal pattern, it defies linearity. The cycle is not merely of time, it is also the return of the ‘ritu’, fertility and the ecological and hydrological cycles including the totality of human relations with the nature. There are various rituals, celebrations, cultural practices related to Chaitra Sangkanti. They vary from area to area, village to village, community to community. The cultural practice of Chaitra Sangkranti is diverse, albeit with some common elements. The time in ‘sangkranti’ comes back again and again and it is never a ‘new’ time. The last becomes the first again. If we intend to keep ourselves linked with the local practices, with the ‘bhab’ or the way of being in our culture, it is important that we understand ‘sangkranti’ more deeply and situate ourselves in the rich metaphors, imaginations and cultural practices of our people. So celebration of Chaitra Sangkranti is very important for us. Celebration of Chaitra Sangkranti is different in different areas. For example, in Dinajpur women clean the house in the morning on the last day of the month of Chaitra. They bathe and pour a pot of water on the Tulshi plant, so that it is refreshed. This is a symbolic action by women with regard to the Tulshi plant, since it is a sacred plant, but it could be with any plant. Even communal identification of Tulshi as belonging to Hindu practices could not stop Muslim women doing the same in sangkranti. During Chaitra, it is usually dry and the plants need water. By watering the Tulshi the people want to ensure that all the plants will have water. Women’s relation to nature and biodiversity is symbolically represented by the act of watering. The most important part of Chaitra Sangkranti is to cook 14 different kinds of shak (herb), preferably uncultivated. Shak cooking is very special and is full of diversity. The shaks have beautiful names: kolmi, lune, henchi, notey, dheki, kumra shak, shushni, lau shak, gima, etc. The farmers eat lau shak before going to the field for ploughing. Women and young girls go to the fields and collect shak, particularly those which are bitter in taste, such as the gima. This is eaten in the afternoon. On this day, fish, meat or eggs are strictly prohibited. It is a full vegetarian day for people of all religions, castes and classes. This is extremely significant from the perspective of ecology and biodiversity. Collection of uncultivated shaks is also a kind of ecological auditing during Chaitra Sangkranti. Unavailability of a particular plant is seen as an ecological crisis and sign of wrong agricultural practices. So vegetarianism in the Chaitra Sangkranti is not merely a ritual; it is deeply related to the practice of ecological auditing of the farming practices of rural Bengal. Another important aspect of Chaitra Sangkranti is to consume Paira-Chhatu (barley) or powder-cake made from millets. This is a particular way to appreciate certain plants that are drought-resistant and can save lives in times of famine. The first day of Baishakh is very important for farmers. In Narsingdi, for example, the farmers follow a certain tradition for planting seeds. Early in the morning, they go to the field with ‘bashi mukh’ (without washing their faces) and plough the land. Women clean the courtyard with cow dung. They cook a sweet dish with rice and molasses called ‘kheer’, but no milk is added. Women then bathe and bring paddy seeds to the cleaned courtyard and strew the paddy seeds on it. The wet seeds are then taken to the field for planting. After planting the seeds, they put the ‘kheer’ on banana leaves and take it to the farmland and put it in the centre. This is meant for birds, animals, insects, etc. The family cannot eat kheer before it is kept on the paddy field. A very rich and symbolic relation is constructed with all the realms of nature. In fact a detailed anthropological as well as philosophical research should be conducted to capture the diverse and innovative practices of the people in Sangkranti. The purpose of this article is to highlight that need with the warning that there is no so-called ‘fixed’ tradition and no homogeneity in cultural practices that can be identified as ‘Bangali’. Cultures and traditions are always changing and evolving. We should rather rediscover our diversity and shun all kinds of stereotyping and prejudices and free ourselves from the cultural politics of identities. Nevertheless there are certain principles that are fascinating and extremely important for our survival and prosperity. We need to highlight those principles and celebrate them as the conditions of our life and lifestyles in order to rebuild ourselves as a strong political community cognizant of our diverse cultural practices. From the various practices I am familiar with, I identify the following principles. These are: i. Celebrating the preservation of biodiversity through collection and cooking of 14 different shaks or leafy vegetables. The number 14 is symbolic; it indeed expresses the intention that the uncultivated food sources are conserved and we are preserving our biodiversity. Collection of 14 uncultivated shaks should not be difficult in a country rich in biodiversity. ii. Consumption of drought-resistant cereals is important, particularly because they are not our staples. Nevertheless they are extremely important in difficult times. iii. Consumption of bitter food is important for good health. Chaitra or mid-April is hot, therefore eating bitter herbs is good for health and prevents diseases. iv. Drinking sherbet made of green mango, and eating yoghurt, cheera, chhatu helps to ensure diversity in food and food security for our people. v. We must strictly avoid all meat, in order to celebrate the sanctity of life, at least for a day or two. Consumption of greens also symbolises that we are closer to sun. The greens are the source of energy transformed by the plants with the help of the sun by photo-synthesis. As long as we can generate principles from diverse practices, we can redesign our festivals that are appropriate for our time. I do not believe in traditions, but only in the future. I want to translate the ‘past’ or the ‘tradition’ to create a happy future. I am not against people celebrating Bangla Nababarsha and doing so in their own manner. However, we should rather regard the day as the continuation of the celebration of sangkranti and avoid copying the celebrations of New Year’s Day. Festivity is extremely important for our familial, social and political life. The grandeur of the rich and diversified cultural practices of the people will be a source of tremendous energy for our rise as a strong political community. Let’s celebrate Chaitra Sangkranti and re-invent our festivals that can re-unite us on a diverse cultural plane where everyone is invited with innovating ideas.
‘Pahela Baishakh is a landmark when we recognise our identity’
Serajul Islam Chowdhury interviewed by Mubin S Khan
How have Pahela Baishakh celebrations changed in recent years, from what you have seen in your youth? It was during the British period and I remember going with my father to the village market where shopkeepers, especially the ones my father had direct interaction with, would treat us to sweets and other things. The celebrations were basically centred the markets where the old accounts were closed off, payments and dues settled, and new ‘halkhata’ [account books] opened. During the Pakistan period, not a lot of prominence was given to celebrating Pahela Baishakh. In the 1960s, Chhayanaut started its musical programme at ‘Ramna Batamul’, which inducted the middle class into the celebrations and also acted as a rebellion against the Pakistani rulers for stifling the Bengali culture. During 1969 and 1970, when the movement was its peak, ‘mela’ [fair] was introduced into the Pahela Baishakh celebrations. Before that, ‘mela’ was held more during religious festivals like the Eid and Muharram. That is how it has been since. Since the middle class began taking part in these celebrations, there have developed almost two distinct kinds of celebrations. What do you make of it and where does it stand now? For the peasantry it is more ingrained in the process of life and does not hold any philosophical meaning. It is basically the start of a business year. For the middle class though I see it as a place in which we stand. It is a psychological landmark in which we recognise our identity. And in this day of globalisation and in a time where we are more alienated from nature than ever before it is a time where we go back to our roots. It can, however, hold other meanings as well. In encountering the modern world we can use Pahela Baishakh as a platform to stand upon as a means to celebrate our language, culture and history. Pahela Baishakh is not only celebrated in Bangladesh but also in many places in the region, including South India, and can also be something with which we can bond with our regional neighbours. But do you not think that in this modern day and age, with production methods changing worldwide and losing direct relationship to nature, and the world following the Christian calendar, Baishakh’s main purpose has become redundant? That is not an individual problem of ours; it is a problem for almost all the different cultures in the world. The difference is to the degree with which we have sold ourselves and I am not only being nostalgic about the past in saying this. For example, in Thailand, a booming westernised economy, they are very particular about their New Year celebrations. So, why and how can we revive it? We should revive it because it gives us an individual identity and recognises our relationship to nature. Using our calendar as a platform, which is very strongly related to seasonal changes, we should activate our campaign against first world countries, who are primarily responsible for destroying nature and endangering our existence. There are, however, more reasons. Most of the landmark dates in our culture are related to mourning and this is a rare one which is related to celebrations. Pahela Baishakh should be used to bring urban city dwellers who virtually live slum-like existences, nowadays, to emerge out of their isolated, hostile, individualistic, profit-seeking attitude and step out to share, bond, cultivate a collective dream, etc. Essentially, I see this as framing a certain kind of attitude. Even in terms of economics, if we are to have a strong human resource, we need things like patriotism, togetherness and identity to build the right frame of mind. Pahela Baishakh essentially is also a rare celebration in our culture which is secular in nature. As for ways to revive it, one of the ideas is to shift the date of announcing our annual budget from July 1 to Pahela Baishakh. That way, there will be an institutional recognition of this day and business institutions can once again go back to opening ‘halkhata’ in the New Year. But would it not affect our stand in international business? It’s not as if the whole world does it on July 1. The United States does it sometime in August while India declares its budget sometime in April. There are essentially two celebrations that are directly related to Bangla culture, i.e. Pahela Baishakh and February 21. While Pahela Baishakh remains a historical and cultural celebration, Ekushey seems to have stolen the thunder when it comes to our language and literature. That is true. One of the reasons could be that Pahela Baishakh is more related to seasonal changes and socio-economic factors. Ekushey is an event outside the flow of life; it is a rare and extraordinary event that inspires literature. Pahela Baishakh is more tuned to the process of life. It is an everyday affair that has very little distance from our lives. How does Baishakh fare in Bengali literature? There is a lot of poetry but not much else. Two of our great poets, Rabindranath Tagore and Nazrul Islam essentially treat it as a landmark – of washing away the past and ringing in the new – and not much else. Nazrul does make use of Baishakhi jhar but apart from that you will not find much description. Baishakh’s destructive and creative powers are what have fascinated some writers. See, in our culture, the season we long for, is not Baishakh but Poush. It is the winter, which is very short, which has the greatest romantic connotation. The little description you find of Baishakh in literature is about its rudeness and severity. This is frankly not the best time of the year to feel poetic. And how about Baishakh’s relationship to politics? There hasn’t been much. During the Pakistan period it was used as a form of protest for a while though it would be wrong of me to deny there is slight political dimension with the rise of Islamic militancy. It is the only occasion were people from all religion inside the Bengali culture converge and stand in the way of trying to align religion to Bengali culture. This celebration, in terms of philosophy, is also very earthly in the sense that it has no gods or other worldly connotations to it. We badly need to cultivate this phenomenon in our culture. Apart from shifting the budget announcement date, can you think of any other way that we can strengthen these celebrations with? The budget thing is something is I feel strongly about but apart from that we can concentrate on stressing on our ‘mela’ culture. It is very much an old and local tradition; and more than its commercial value it has meant a festival, a form of entertainment over the years which needs to be preserved to safeguard ourselves from the ill-effects of modern life.
A carnival of revisiting, reinforcing identity
by Mashida R Haider
‘Oi notuner keton ure kal baishakhi jhor, Tora shob joyoddhoni kor, tora shob joyoddhoni kor’ I remember as a child singing this song at the Pahela Baishakh function at school, year after year, in my awkwardly worn sari, not even moving my lips properly should my lipstick get smudged. The words themselves meant little, hardly more than sounds, and we lisped through most of it, but nothing outdid our gusto, as we revelled in the tune and the spirit of it all. Years later, when I went to my first Baishakhi Mela and older, more articulate and melodious voices started singing those much familiar words, I was moved. It was one of those early summer mornings, which was bound to get much hotter as the day progressed, if the hair sticking to the nape of your neck was anything to go by. But people didn’t seem to mind as they thronged Ramna Batamul, laughing and talking, jostling, and all very, very relaxed. The air was balmy, sweetened with the smell of pitha, girls getting their faces painted giggled at photographers, art students went around to women putting shidur on their foreheads, an elderly couple walked by holding hands, and young men wore wreaths of bakul on their heads. The singers sang those old words with gusto. Suddenly those words made sense. The kalbaishakhi jhor, so intrinsically reminiscent of Bangladesh, conjured up images of wind and flying leaves, blowing away the remnants of the previous year. It spoke of hope, of new beginnings. I felt jubilant — a new year had started. *** Chhayanaut, an institution which goes hand in hand with the celebrations of the Bengali New Year, held their first open-air programme in 1967. It wasn’t very easy those early years. From stage difficulties and insects that flew at the young singers from the oshoth tree and political turbulence from the Pakistani government who did not condone the idea of promoting a separate identity, that of Bengalis, it wasn’t a very smooth ride. Criticisms of propagating ‘Hindu rituals’ and even bomb threats made what could have been a simple music festival into a controversial one. During the Pakistan period, songs welcoming the New Year were mixed with songs of rebellion. Chhayanaut, despite being reputed to be associated with Rabindra Sangeet, also diversified to include works of Nazrul, deshatmabodhak gaan, Atul Prasad, and Dweejendra Lal. ‘It is perhaps that spirit of rebellion that keeps Chhayanaut still strong and focused and bent on performing every year without fail,’ says Nazrul Sangeet singer Khairul Anam Shakeel, secretary of Chhayanaut. ‘As with every year, we will start with morning ragas because Chhayanaut has a long standing tradition of vocal classical music. The one and a half hour show will comprise of every genre of Bengali music, with emphasis on the lesser known ones to add variety to the show. ‘Recently, with all the bans and threats to the institution and the festival itself, participants feel it is not just about a function, it is also about making a statement and standing up for what you believe. This is our culture and something we do out of pride for the country. And it is a protest against those who want to stop it.’ *** The time bomb threat materialised in 2001, in an incident that exceeded nightmares. A number of people died as a bomb exploded very close to the Chhayanaut stage, with blown up limbs of the victims landing on the stage itself. People were injured, there were deaths, but the calm after the storm only strengthened people’s determination. The very next year, the festival was held, as usual, with participants putting on a brave show and singing even more spiritedly. The audience swarmed in thousands. ‘I think that after these threats to our culture, and the underground movement to change what is ours, it has lured more crowds,’ says Rafiqun Nabi, a teacher at the Institute of Fine Arts, and creator of ‘Tokai’, one of the best loved Bangla cartoons. ‘It was amazing to see people that year, and how they congregated to establish their identities as Bengalis even more forcefully.’ Over the years, the enthusiasm of the students at the institute has not waned. Every year, they bring out a colourful procession with huge masks depicting rural folk art. The masks are made with themes of peace and protest in mind. The preparation starts around twenty days earlier with everyone working around the clock. The colours of work in progress are a sight to behold. ‘The fund for the ‘shobjatra’ as it is called is self generated by the teachers, students and ex-students of the institute,’ says Nabi. ‘People help in whatever capacity they can, selling paintings, selling sculptures and contributing the money selflessly.’ It’s a carnival with intent: that of establishing identity. *** Even though the celebration of Pahela Baishakh used to be somewhat of an exclusive event, catering to the tastes of the intellectuals, the culturally aware and the crème de la crème of urban Dhaka, it has expanded both physically and in abstraction to include the younger generations, the middle classes and to anybody who wants to be a part of the revelry. *** ‘This year, my girlfriends and I got together to buy identical saris for the first of Baishakhi,’ says Tasmina, a first year student at a private university. ‘That was a trip in itself as we each chose separate colours of taant saris with broad borders. I have gotten permission from my parents, as long as boys are accompanying us, to go to batamul. This is the first time for me and about fifteen of us will get together early in the morning and spend it there till lunch time when we go home and feast on bhaat and bhorta with our respective families.’ *** This, then, is the crux of Pahela Baishakh: a simple reason to get together with friends, to have meals with the family, and to spend it like any other holiday. And it is the one day that you understand your identity, have a glimpse of your culture and welcome the New Year as only a Bengali can.
The real Pahela Baishakh, from the villages, in the villages
by Mahfuz Sadique
'Pahela Baishakh has long ceased to be our festival; it’s now a gimmick for you city folks,’ Abdul Kader Mridha had a grin on his face, as the octogenarian of village Joyshara under Atrai upazila in Naogaon sat on the makeshift bamboo bench facing the only convenience store in the vicinity. Calling out to the young men, who had timidly trickled from the surrounding paddy fields to gather around the spot, Kader Mridha pounded the dusty ground devoid of rain for nearly four months with his thick wooden walking stick, and yelled out, ‘So, what do you men say — is Pahela Baishakh our big festival?’ Blank stares at first, and then one of the teenage faces with watermark traces of a juvenile moustache, blurts out: ‘There is a mela near the haat. It goes on for a week. We go there.’ Several sceptical glances from the relatively more wrinkled faces turned towards the boy. ‘What?’ ‘To see those filthy cinemas, and drink “bad liquid”?’ ‘Is that what you call mela?’ The accusations and questions crashed onto the already shrinking young faces in, in what was a small crowd, as the morning sun climbed further up the sky to a blazing mid-afternoon glare. Joyshara is a typical village. It’s what the Roads and Highways Department lexicon would term ‘remote’. The motorbike taking me had to stop twice, as the resurrected feeder road to the village was having new soil and crushed brick spread over it. The diggers — both men and women with bare rippling muscles — were mostly from in and around the village. The dust rising from the constant thumping of shovels wafted the warm, dry air with a grainy taste, lingering on at the roof of my mouth. Despite all the work on the road which snaked through several villages, and the dust, Joyshara and everything for miles and miles on both sides of the rail track, on which the local train from Shantahar had brought me to Atrai Sadar station in the morning, was stroked with a gentle green. The paddy fields were gestating for their final gradient shift in colour: from green to gold. A sense of trepid excitement was sparkling on the pupils of the rugged faces standing with me at the crowded entrance of one of the train’s eight compartments. At Raninagar, the station before where I got off, some of the commuters and I had to lend our hands to a man who was trying to pull up a heavy, iron machine with crude blue colour onto the train. ‘What is that?’ Several curious, forgiving glances shifted between those around me. ‘Bought a new thrashing machine for this year’s harvest,’ the man with the machine answered. As I casually brought up the subject of Pahela Baishkah, the initial blank faces and then meek smiles of recognising an alien idea was a potent nudge to the understanding that Pahela Baishakh was no longer a part of ‘their’ way of life. Someone, somewhere in the cities have been telling them through television, newspapers and the dominant urban popular culture that this — Pahela Baishakh — was a festival they should be calling their own. *** While Baishakhi offers for cheap mobile lines and opening of glass-rapped shopping malls and swanky cafés crowd airwaves and newspaper pages, and as millions migrate to be part of the great dream of prosperity that has come to represent the ‘elusive’ urban middle-class, through our looking glasses the lives of the other millions in Bangladesh’s villages have somewhat become a ‘fabricated reality’. Monga, flood, micro-credit, fertiliser crisis, diesel prices have become fables many of us read in newspapers and say, ‘Ishh!’ Ananda (Joy), the quintessential Bengali word for happiness, was always there under the waves of sunshine and over the green paddy fields of rural Bengal. Its condensed expressions had been through the many festivals dotting the seasons. But before romanticising over the ‘spontaneity’ of these festivities, it is essential to understand their roots. For many of these celebrations, though expressed through a festive mood, were borne out of feudal, agrarian systems. And Pahela Baishakh is the best example of such festivities. Like many borrowed traditions, and transposed ideas, during the early rule of the Mughals, the Hijri calendar started being used. But as the Hijri calendar was based on lunar readings, it was in gross mismatch with our native agricultural cycles. This also created a problem for the ruling class: taxes. And in order to streamline agricultural tax collection, a new calendar — a mix between the Hijri and the then existing Bengali Solar calendars — was formulated by a renowned scholar and astronomer of the time, Fatehullah Shirazi, and instituted by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. This new Fasli San (agricultural year) started off on 10/11 March, 1584, and was known as Bangabda or Bengali year (Source: Banglapedia). It was during Emperor Akbar’s period that saw the first celebrations of Pahela Baishakh. And throughout the British colonial times, though the festivities changed in variation and form, the zamindari system of landlords collecting taxes at the end of the year sustained these celebrations. While the tax was collected on the last day of the Bengali calendar, that is the last day of Chaitra, the celebrations organised by the zaminders — quite logically — started off the next day. Different localities had their own way of celebrating. But while local forms of celebrations were customised with the climate and topography of the region, the actual formal celebrations were mainly focused around the fairs and other festivities, in the form of entertainment and food, organised by the zamindars. While today’s popular history mostly projects a time of merriment during the time, this period also culminated in a crude reality: it was the time when farmers had to give away much of their earnings. Of the three crop cycles of the Bengal delta — ayush, aman and boro — the harvest of the last one, which in fact was a leaner season during those periods compared to the other two, coincided with Pahela Baishakh. As a result, after the tax collection and the initial merriment of festivities were over, the farmers of the Bengal delta were hit by poverty in the following months as the remaining meagre crop and other savings started getting eroded. Though this phenomenon has changed in nature, with the abolishment of the permanent landlord, or zamindari, system, today’s monga is just the acute and more complex manifestation of that crack in the system. One of the reasons for this can be attributed to the ever decreasing crop holdings per household. Another aspect of the festivities of Pahela Baishakh was the opening of a new halkhata at trading establishments. The point to note here is that in Bengal trading and capital-intensive businesses, as in every society, was limited to a certain segment of society, namely those closest to the ruling class. And as the majority of the populace were purely producers, i.e. farmers, Pahela Baishakh manifested itself in a two-prong erosion of savings as they had to part with another large chunk of their seasonal earnings. Therefore, if put together, it is natural that the rentier class, i.e. landlords (zaminders), traders, were the most enthusiastic in organising formal celebrations as their coffers started filling up. Yet, Pahela Baishakh celebrations in more localised forms have long been around, before the British, or even the Mughals, came. And these celebrations had little connection to the ushering of a new year as a calendar, or cycle. That, unfortunately, is simply the post-modern expression of a colonial tradition. The celebration of Pahela Baishakh as an event ushering the Bengali New Year is, therefore, fundamentally a transposed idea: an urban ‘re-imagining of popular memory’ of sorts. What started in Dhaka in the mid-sixties as a nationalist, cultural movement rooted in urban/semi-urban middle-class values, and centred on the native reinvention of the classical Rabindric mould of the Calcutta intelligentsia, has now manifested itself through ‘a selective post-modern screening of indigenous motifs’ befitting that transformation — or rather metamorphosis — through present day Pahela Baishakh celebrations. Today’s Pahela Baishakh, dotted with the enveloping grasp of the localised capitalist establishment, is Bangladesh’s latest addition to the never-ending parade of confidence in selling our own culture, but it is albeit not a holistic representation of our present-day rural, agrarian countryside. The urban intelligentsia should be careful in claiming so, as is often the case. For if that claim of origin is made, much larger dilemmas will suddenly surface; probably they already are out. Questions of identity, of coping with the painful transition from a feudal, agrarian system to a winner-take-it-all, predatory capitalist system are looming at the backdrop as we are slowly awakening to the realities of our new-found confidence of ‘re-invention.’ *** The men of Joyshara village have ‘bigger fish to fry’ than Pahela Baishakh, as they laid it out bluntly. For now their vigils, often nightlong, are for the dreaded pangapal, or locust, also known as ‘brown grasshoppers’ among many local insecticide agents of Cyngenta, BAYER. The agents relish like opera conductors at this pregnant pause before imminent catastrophe for they know that the hybrid crop verities are highly prone to those and other insects, and eventually most of these farmers will have to rush to them for the solution. Apart from the irrigation done through hired shallow tube wells burning over-priced diesel as the Rural Electrification Board’s lines are lacking any of the promised sparks, till the beginning of the IRRI harvesting (which is the main hybrid crop variety of the boro cycle), they are petrified over the idea of current poka, another name for the locusts. This harvesting incidentally is not before or even during Pahela Baishakh — as the logical deduction of a festival supposedly rooted in agricultural harvesting, and tax collecting thereafter, would indicate — but at least two to three weeks beyond that time, at the end of April. ‘And even after I bring the crop home, I immediately have to start selling many maunds of it at painfully low prices. Everyone sells. They have to. For the dozens of creditors — diesel dealers, insecticide agents, the landlord from whom I have taken borga (agricultural land rental system), all start pounding me for their dues,’ Mohammad Saiful was now irritated at any insistence on bringing up the joys of Pahela Baishakh. ‘So, young man, now you understand what is Pahela Baishakh to us!’ a sheepish smile of greater wisdom glowed over the wide-bearded face of Kader Mridha, as he raised his face to the sun with his eyes closed, giving off the impression that he is sunbathing. His hands strongly holding onto the darkened wooden walking stick he was pounding the cracked dirt road of the new road with. As thousands clad in red, white saris and punjabis throng to Dhaka’s Ramna Batamul to listen to the quintessentially Bengali songs of Rabindranath, on both sides of the newly finished feeder road snaking through Joyshara village under Atrai upazila of Naogaon — incidentally, the district is the source of nearly one-third of the rice brought in for consumption in the capital — men with bare torsos and tucked up lungis will be spraying the highly effective, but toxic, Fedi insecticide over their crops to fend off locusts. It is not a time for celebration in Joyshara; it’s a question of survival. ‘I heard you eat panta and hilsha for hundreds of takas to celebrate Pahela Baishakh. That is sad. We celebrate in more grand ways. We just eat panta with maybe just a green chilli to finish off our leftover rice. But I guess that’s way things are nowadays.’ The wise, old Abdul Kader Mridha had a way of telling things.
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